福又又－淡水魚丸老店 1977

 

1977。

那年，淡水渡船頭的燈塔依舊；

火車從關渡出了隧道之後，優優雅雅地駛近淡水河；

淡水街上，錯落的是紅瓦屋頂與洋樓；

在那些幽微曲徑裡的，

是浪漫的、悠遠的、淡水式的lifestyle。

 

傳承三代的老店，便創立於那個淡水人心中永恆的1977年。源自淡水魚丸老字號，位於老街觀光區的「福又又」，以其鮮爽的手工魚丸與辛甜鹹香的阿給，成為在地人心頭的老淡水滋味。然而四十個年頭過去了，當空間需要重生之際，究竟什麼味道該留下來？又該注入什麼樣的感覺？以及，在地與國際、傳統與創新，設計該如何介入才能讓看似遙遠的兩端並存，同時又能自然流露品牌價值？

 

新基地係由四個店面相連形成長形空間，一如基地向河邊傾斜，四個店面也如時間之流般揉合了福又又的過去、現在與未來。第一個空間保留為開放式廚房是來自於店主的堅持。強調手感現做的小店，過去開放式的設計讓人看得到完整製程、更感受得到職人精神；而從前在地人想要來點小食時，拉一張板凳在攤前坐下和店家邊吃邊聊，胃暖了，心也有了動力，如此美好的人際關係就這樣透過傳統小吃攤的重現而被保留下來。同時，招牌亦沿用傳統形制，刻意刷舊的木作加上老師傅手寫店名，八〇年代的常民生活，瞬時在開放式廚房裡鮮明起來。

 

緊鄰著開放式廚房的，便是外帶區與內用區的轉圜空間。因為這條巷子直通淡水河岸，第二個空間便抽取海水藍作為門框主色，夜幕時分更與深邃的天空悄悄相襯；櫃檯則以常見的金屬浪板傳遞出海水波光粼粼的感受，令人不禁想起淡水河的景致，櫃檯裡竹篩上堆成山狀的熱騰騰手工魚丸，正等著被秤斤論兩帶回去與親人共享。隨著圖樣復古的花磚踏入內用區時的那一面紅磚拱門，則是這幢百年日式老宅留給後人的驚喜。原先將被敲掉的牆面，竟在一鎚鎚中露出它的原貌，而紅磚的質樸本質不正與福又又的本質如出一轍？最終，就僅僅撥開磚外的材料不加任何修飾，讓這牆紅磚成為福又又專屬的海口嚥日、更留下了歲月的顏色。

 

來到由第三和第四個空間形成的內用區，木元素喚起的是早年淡水河畔那一艘艘木造船隻的記憶；臨街而設的吧台區，則將用餐人們與城市的界線打開，就像旅行時我們總愛看著街上的人流，那一刻將凝塑成未來的美好記憶。從對街上看過來，充滿當代感的通透玻璃與碼頭灰空心磚勾勒出福又又與時俱進的精神，而維繫一個品牌、三代人、四個空間的，是福又又傳承的故事，更是福又又對於在地、對於人、對於情感的那份堅持。

 

英國大文豪莎士比亞曾說，城市即人。俱意設計以淡水為靈感，抽取夕陽、碼頭、以及建築的原始特色，透過材質勾起特殊在地記憶，以刻意保留的粗糙呈現出時光的氛圍，為這個充滿漁港情懷的品牌，找到延續幸福的價值與力量。

 

Fu-Yo Yo － Tamsui fishball vendor

 

1977.

The lighthouse at the Tamsui Ferry Pier still stood tall.

The trains would pass through Guandu, exit the tunnel, and approach the Tamsui River without a care in the world.

Along Tamsui Street were rows of red-roofed buildings and colonial architecture.

The beautiful, quiet landwas home to a romantic, enduring lifestyle that was uniquely Tamsui.

 

The three-generation business was established in 1977, a year that remains eternal in the hearts of Tamsui residents. Established in Tamsui, Fuyoyo is a time-honored fishball vendor located right on the old Tamsui Street. Their fresh handmade fishballs and sweet, savory A-geis have made their way into the hearts of local residents and established themselves as the taste of Tamsui. Yet as 40 years have passed and the brand considers reinventing themselves, they were confronted with many questions: What flavors should be retained? What vibes should be introduced? How is the local reconciled with the global? How do innovation and tradition coexist? How can design be used to integrate two ends of the spectrum while retaining brand values?

 

The new store is a rectangular space formed with four spaces that tilt towards the river and merge the past, present, and future of Fuyoyo. The first space is preserved as an open kitchen at the owner’s insistence. The small shop focuses on Fuyoyo’s dedication to handmade foods; open kitchens of the past would show customers the full production process as proof of its craftsmanship. In the past, locals would pull a chair in front of the vendor, enjoying a quick chat with the vendor as they get in a quick meal. As their bellies filled up, their hearts warmed and they were once again ready to face the realities of life. Such beautiful and intimate interactions are thus preserved through recreating a traditional stall. The signboard pays tribute to traditional designs, with “Fuyoyo” being etched onto a treated wooden slab by an old craftsman. As patrons enter the shop, they step into the past and are transported back to the 80s.

 

Neighboring the open kitchen is a space connecting the take-out section and seating section. As the alley leads straight towards the river banks of Tamsui, the doorframe leading into the second space is painted in a cyan-blue that juxtaposes beautifully against the dark night skies. Bamboo strainers sitting on the counter hold small mounds of steaming handmade fish balls that are waiting to be brought home and shared with loved ones. Following the vintage patterned tiles, patrons are met with a red brick archway leading into the seating section, a remnant of this century-old Japanese house. The design team had originally intended for the archway to be taken down. During renovations, however, the plain but beautiful red bricks became exposed and seemed the perfect symbol for Fuyoyo. The archway was thereby preserved without further adornments and now stands quietly in Fuyoyo as its own attraction that also retains the colors of a bygone past.

 

As patrons enter into the seating section comprised of the third and fourth space, wood materials can be seen, evoking the earlier days where wooden ships lined up in rows along the river banks of Tamsui. The bar seating section is designed to face the streets andto immerse patrons in the city so they may build beautiful memories of the locale. Visitors looking into Fuyoyo will see a modern windowpane and traditional hollow bricks that speak to Fuyoyo’s time-honored heritage and innovations. The heritage ties together the brand, the three generations, and the four spaces and it also speaks to Fuyoyo’s dedication towards Tamsui, its people, and nostalgic sentiments.

 

Shakespeare once wrote, “the people are the city.”Jiuyi has drawn inspiration from Tamsui and colors from the setting sun, the wharf, and local buildings to evoke a unique nostalgia through carefully chosen building materials. The designs intentionally retain a raw and primitive texture to emphasize the passing of time and empower the time-honored brand to continue spreading joy and happiness.